PFAS: The forever chemical on your jacket and in your blood

There is nothing I like more than a good waterproof jacket. The feeling of indestructibility, when you’re bombing it to the bus stop in the morning in torrential rain, is addictive. What I hadn’t stopped to consider up until recently, however, is how the chemicals that they use to keep you dry are harming the planet, and us.

PFAS, or Per/Polyfluorinated Substances, are a group of chemicals used to make waterproofing for jackets, tents, and other outdoor equipment. They are long-lasting, incredibly waterproof, and as it turns out totally indestructible. This has led to PFAS being nicknamed the forever chemical, the runoff from jackets bleeding into the water table, glaciers, and even our drinking water.

Miners have found PFAS in areas as remote as Mount Everest. The CDC now reports that “PFAS have been found in the environment and in the blood of humans and animals worldwide” and “Most people in the United States have one or more specific PFAS in their blood.”

The Wisconsin Department of Health and Services has been researching the effects of some PFAS on animals and humans. Although different chemicals have different effects, health complications range from increases in thyroid disease and blood pressure to decreased response to vaccines and fertility in women. 

Scientists have been manufacturing PFAS since the early 1950s, although testing on it didn’t begin in earnest until the early 2000s. Since then, and with lower detection limits, more and more is known about the group of chemicals. Despite this, there is still no longer-term plan on how to stop the production and use of PFAS.

This begs the question of why we still use it. GORE-TEX, one of the largest and most known producers of waterproofing materials in clothing, does not plan to transition away from PFAS until the end of 2025 according to the Times. GORE-TEX has dealt with a huge number of brands from The North Face to Clarks Originals, with PFAS being used in every aspect of the fashion industry.

Arc’teryx still uses short-chain PFC, a form of PFAS chemical, and has only recently introduced its first PFC-free membrane. This means that all those hiking influencers have left a little bit of their jackets every time it rains. 

Most of these companies are aware of these issues and are trying to rectify them, but not quickly enough. Outdoors and technical brands need to be working to protect the environment – pollution affects how we use these clothes. 

As a consumer, things get even trickier when considering other ways you might try to reduce your environmental impact. Buying vintage means you are more likely to be exposed to waterproof clothing from the 1950s onwards possibly containing PFAS. That vintage shop you love? The Patagonia parka you liked on Vinted? These items almost definitely contain PFAS. Equally, it is hard to tell if an item is totally PFAS-free, as the chemicals are used in everything from zip tape to interior membrane waterproofing. 

There are some substantial moves in the right direction. Companies like Timberland have claimed to be working towards being PFAS-free in the near future. Although this excludes certain workwear-specific items, it is a step in the right direction. 

93% of all of Patagonia’s waterproof materials are now made without PFC. Patagonia also donates 1% of their annual earnings to environmental protection schemes. This may not sound like a lot, but it adds up when you turn over $209.1 million a year. Until then, as fashion and outerwear enthusiasts, it is important that we support initiatives such as the PFAS project lab and focus on maintaining and using our clothing for as long as possible. There is no point in owning some super slick technical rain jacket if you only wear it in the shower.

Words by Stanley Morgan